Edibles & Potables: Eating and drinking near Diocletian’s digs (Split, Croatia)

<div>Edibles & Potables: Eating and drinking near Diocletian’s digs (Split, Croatia)</div>
Split panorama from the Teraca Vidilica overlooking the city.

“The harsh, pungent ink is the least desirable part of the squid. As Venetian cooks have shown, it’s only the mellow, velvety, warm-tasting ink of cuttlefish—seppie—that is suitable for pasta sauce, risotto, and other black dishes.”
—Marcella Hazan, Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking (1992)

If the Super Bowl can deploy Roman numerals with the maximum of embarrassing pretentiousness, then so can I, and as such, Euro XLVI (since the first one in the year MCMLXXXV) has successfully concluded.

Euro XLVI was a warm late autumn week spent in the Croatian port city of Split, and speaking as the owner of a rapidly deteriorating arthritic left hip scheduled to be replaced in early December, allow me to observe that using a cane while hobbling through a hilly European city with ubiquitous stairs, cobblestones and marble surfaces in the central area wasn’t the easiest of assignments undertaken during my Euro Roman Numeral career.

But pain, while annoying, is an acceptable tradeoff for not being in Europe at all.

Split is perched on the Adriatic coast of Croatia as part of the region known thoughout history as Dalmatia. As a nation, Croatian...Read more