Edibles & Potables: Forget Noma. Unsustainable restaurant business models are right around the corner

“Edibles & Potables” is F&D’s Sunday slot for food and dining explorations outside our customary metro Louisville coverage area. 

Across the ocean blue in Europa, there’s a reinvention underway.

At Noma, there’ll be “no mo” reindeer brain custard with bee pollen. CNN helpfully examines the world-renowned Copenhagen restaurant’s approaching end game.

Noma, one of the most feted restaurants in the world, is set to close its doors to diners next year. Since opening two decades ago, the Copenhagen restaurant – credited with the invention of New Nordic Cuisine – topped the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants five times, most recently in 2021.

But after years of serving dishes based on locally foraged ingredients – from reindeer brain custard with bee pollen to a quince and fermented rice ice cream with an oyster caramel – chef René Redzepi’s three-Michelin-star venture will bring its restaurant chapter to a close at the end of 2024. The following year it will be reborn as a “giant lab,” dubbed Noma 3.0.

“(It will be) a pioneering test kitchen dedicated to the work of food innovation and the development of new flavors, one that will share...Read more