(Originally published in 2021.)
The first time I recall encountering the word “folkways” was in the early 1970s, somewhere deep within the (then) subterranean audio-visual department of the New Albany-Floyd County Public Library.
I’d have been 12, maybe 13 years old.
Folkways Records was founded in 1948. Led by Moses Asch (1905-1986), Folkways sought to document the entire world of sound. The 2,168 titles Asch released on Folkways include traditional and contemporary music from around the world, spoken word in many languages, and documentary recordings of individuals, communities, and current events.
The term “folkways” was coined in 1906 by the American sociologist William Graham Sumner in his book, Folkways: a study of the sociological importance of usages, manners, customs, mores, and morals.
Folkways are habits of the individual and customs of the society which arise from efforts to satisfy needs … then they become regulative for succeeding generations and take on the character of a social force.
Much later in life the word “foodways” meandered to my attention.
In social science foodways are the cultural, social, and economic practices relating to the production and consumption of food. Foodways often refers to the intersection of food in culture, traditions, and history.
“Foodways” dates to 1971 and an essay by folklorist Jay Anderson. My introduction to this notion came courtesy of the Southern Foodways Alliance.
The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South.
In the early 2000s, I contributed to a Southern Foodways Alliance oral history project about legendary Louisville bartenders, with my topic being an acquaintance with the late, great Max Allen, Jr.
Roger Baylor got to know Max when he was working at a liquor store in New Albany, Indiana. Max lived in New Albany and would stop in the store to talk shop with Roger’s boss. Eventually, Roger and Max struck up a friendship. Before getting into the microbrew business with his New Albanian Brew Company, Roger was affiliated with the local Home Brew Club. Max was a member, too, and over the years, Roger came to know the man behind the bartender.
Digressions suit me, but let’s get to the point. After all, I only came here today because the light was on.
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If the Southern Foodways Alliance chose to include documentation about...Read more
